Handmade Paper Pulp Frames with a Concrete Look – Unique Industrial-Style Decor

Three handmade paper pulp frames with a concrete-like finish displayed on a fabric background. Each frame features different designs: a Kraków map, a motivational quote, and vintage photographs, showcasing their industrial, textured style.

A close-up of three handmade paper pulp frames with a concrete-like texture. The frames display a Kraków map, a motivational quote, and vintage photographs, highlighting their industrial-inspired, textured design.

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Back to Bigger Forms

I’m back to working on larger projects – and it feels so good! Over the past few weeks, I’ve been focusing on smaller Christmas decorations. It was a completely new experience for me, as I had never tried making such things before. At the same time, I wanted to show just how versatile paper pulp can be – not just for making bowls, but also for creating smaller decorative elements. Now, it’s time to scale up again – my “concrete blocks” are making a comeback!

Inspiration – From Nature to Walks with My Dog

As always, I find inspiration everywhere: from nature, which provides endless textures and shapes, to my daily walks with my dog. Wandering between urban buildings is the perfect opportunity to notice industrial details and think about how to translate them into paper. My mind is constantly working on how to recreate something raw and massive, while keeping it lightweight and practical.

Two Ways to Make the Frames

In this project, I’ll show you two different ways to create industrial-style frames for photos and posters. The first method is more complete and literal – the paper pulp forms a solid block, resulting in a bold, striking effect. The second method is a bit of a “cheat” – at first, I wasn’t sold on it, but over time, I started to appreciate it. Even though I’m not a fan of shortcuts or makeshift solutions, I have to admit they sometimes make sense.

What’s in Store?

Alongside the two methods for making these frames, I’ll show you the different effects you can achieve with paper pulp and the challenges I encountered along the way. It’s not always the easiest material to work with, but it offers endless possibilities. In the video, you’ll see the entire process – from creation to finishing – along with a few tips on how to “save” your frames if something goes wrong or fix specific problems. Photos just don’t do it justice, so I really encourage you to check out the video – I hope it inspires you to try your own experiments.

Phew, this post is going to be massive! But I hope you’ll find something useful in it. :) What do you think?

What You Will Need:

Cardboard, tape, scissors, trash bag, or any other plastic sheet – These are needed to create a waterproof mold. We’ll be placing the paper pulp inside, which contains water and might leak through the cardboard. If you plan to dry the pulp on surfaces like a carpet, make sure to secure the mold properly to avoid staining.
Paper pulp – You can find the link to make it below.
Optional: Wooden skewers – For the second version.
Something to smooth the surface – For example, a bank card, a pastry tool, or a knife.
Aluminum foil – For imprinting a texture on the surface (optional).
Sewing pins – Optional.

Cover all cardboard pieces with tape and plastic to make the entire mold waterproof. This is essential to prevent the paper pulp, which contains water, from leaking and damaging the surface beneath the mold.

Cardboard pieces covered with tape and placed on a plastic sheet, prepared to create a waterproof mold for paper pulp.

Assemble the taped cardboard pieces into a tray or box shape to create the base mold for your project.

Cardboard pieces taped together and formed into a shallow tray or box shape, ready to serve as a mold for paper pulp.

TWO VERSIONS

A detailed view of two handmade paper pulp frames with a rough, concrete-like texture. The frames showcase their raw, industrial-inspired design with visible edges and surface imperfections.

FIRST VERSION

In the first version, we fill the mold halfway. Press the pulp firmly into the entire shape. Then, wait about 1-2 days for the first layer to dry partially before adding the second layer. In this version, the second layer will form the front of the decorative block. This is the layer we will smooth out and apply various finishing touches to.

This version is heavier, although dried pulp itself isn’t very heavy. However, it requires more paper, more PVA glue, and the drying time is significantly longer. On the other hand, the final result looks much more like a solid block. It’s not the "cheating" version :P

Start applying the paper pulp, pressing it firmly into the mold. Fill it to about half the height (my mold is 3-4 cm high). Let it dry partially but not completely. If you accidentally over-dry the first layer, lightly moisten it before applying the second layer. This will help the two layers bond better.

A mold partially filled with paper pulp, pressed into the form to create the base layer for a concrete-look frame.

The second layer is the main decorative layer. To achieve better effects, I recommend adding more PVA glue to make the mixture smoother. Mix it thoroughly. This will make it easier to create imprints or characteristic marks resembling those made by a trowel on concrete.

Paper pulp evenly applied in a mold, forming the second layer for creating decorative concrete-like effects.

In the next step, move on to the finishes you can apply. This is where you can get creative with textures, imprints, or other decorative details to give your project a unique, concrete-like appearance.

SECOND VERSION

This version initially felt like cheating to me because it’s partially "empty"—and it was supposed to resemble a solid concrete block. Instead, it looks more like a frame around an image. But is that really a bad thing? On one hand, I’m not a fan of "fakes" or things that pretend to be something they’re not, but I think this version stands strong on its own merit.

Similar to the first version, fill half the height of the mold with paper pulp. However, this time use a mixture with more PVA glue, as we’ll be shaping the front side of the frame right away. This is where you’ll create finishes like holes, cracks, or other details.

A mold filled with evenly smoothed paper pulp, prepared as the front side of a decorative frame with tools placed nearby for further finishing.

Let the mold dry, and once it’s partially dried, flip it over to the other side. Here’s my tip: don’t wait until it’s completely dry—I made that mistake. On larger surfaces, paper pulp tends to shrink. As you can see in the photo, it shrank by about 1-1.5 cm. To save the project, I decided to reduce the mold size by adding two cardboard panels covered in tape and securing them with pins. See? Everything can be saved! :-)

To attach the side panels securely, I decided to add wooden pegs made from skewers. Honestly, I’m not sure if they’re absolutely necessary—I didn’t test without them. I suspect they might not be essential, but I preferred to ensure everything would be sturdy and strong.

A partially dried paper pulp mold with cardboard panels added to adjust for shrinkage, secured in place with colorful pins. A hand points to the added panels.

Next, I covered all the skewers with paper pulp, shaping the edges and sides. Additionally, I aligned everything with the bottom part of the frame to ensure it forms one cohesive piece.

Allow the entire frame to dry completely, ensuring all edges and details are fully set or dry. This step has been thoroughly inspected and approved by the product manager—because every project needs a curious supervisor, right?

A drying paper pulp frame placed on the carpet with a curious sphynx cat sniffing near the edge.

Here you can see the full frame and the noticeable difference after the bottom has dried. The shrinkage of the pulp is visible, demonstrating how the material changes as it dries.

A dried paper pulp frame inside a mold, showing the effects of shrinkage on the bottom layer after drying. A hand is visible holding one of the mold panels.

After the entire frame has dried, you might notice that the paper pulp surface is either concave or convex. To fix this, I decided to "flatten" it by adding weight. I stacked a pile of books on top of the frame, and voilà—the surface straightened out perfectly!

A dried paper pulp frame with a stack of books placed on top to flatten the surface and correct any unevenness.

Surface Finishing

Now let’s move on to the finishing touches. I’ll show you a few ideas, but I’m sure you’ll come up with plenty more on your own. All it takes is a bit of inspiration—take a look at industrial spaces, construction sites with exposed concrete, or even old tenement buildings. The possibilities are endless.

Cracks

Cracks. I achieved these simply by bending and flexing the mold to make the surface crack. This technique works best on pulp that is partially dried.

Damage effects

I created these by pressing crumpled aluminum foil onto the surface of the paper pulp. This simple technique adds texture and gives the frame an industrial, weathered look.

Hands pressing crumpled aluminum foil onto a paper pulp surface to create damage-like texture effects.

Textured marks resembling damage or wear on a paper pulp surface, created by pressing crumpled aluminum foil.

Chipped Corner Effect

To achieve this effect with the second version, you need to build up the corner by adding a layer of pulp over the part that will later be "broken off." Wait until the pulp has partially dried, and then break off the corner to create the desired chipped look.

A paper pulp frame in progress with a partially built-up corner being prepared to create a chipped effect by breaking it off. A hand gently holds the corner to guide the process.

Three handmade paper pulp frames with a raw, concrete-like texture, featuring a Kraków map, a motivational quote, and vintage photographs. The frames showcase an industrial-inspired design with cracks and rugged edges.

DIY Industrial-Style Paper Pulp Frame: Concrete Look Made Easy